Biofashion represents a development direction for alternative materials. It may not be mainstream, but “we are the last generation and have the ability to decide whether we can consume sustainably,” said Park Jin, co-founder of the biotech startup.
Now, clothing made from living microorganisms has entered the luxury realm.
Over the past decade, a handful of researchers have conducted cutting-edge experiments in this field. In 2014, the MIT Media Lab project bioLogic designed a high-concept corset called a "second skin" that responds to body temperature and sweat, controlling the opening of microbe-laden fabric flaps and closed, and made a bioluminescent alternative in 2017. In 2020, former sportswear designer Rosie Broadhead founded Skin Series, a research studio designing therapeutic probiotic clothing, and opened an online store this year. These startups lead the industry with intellectual property such as strains applied to clothing.
Another company at the forefront of fashion bio-fashion, Rubens, is behind cutting-edge clothing styles and seeks more sustainable materials and production methods. Its founder, Rubens, is a knitted womenswear designer who hopes that consumers can Simple clothing care can make a positive contribution to the climate.
Rubens' clothing has a photosynthetic coating that allows it to "breathe and live like a plant". Unlike plant-derived materials, these garments need to "survive," they need sunlight and moisture to actively exhale oxygen. The company's April 2022 photoshop collection will cost about $300 each.
The Photosynthetic collection was designed and produced by Rubens in collaboration with London-based gender-neutral designer fashion concept store Machine-A and Post Carbon Lab, which Rubens said was about "seeking as many opportunities as possible in the journey of biodesign and biomimicry. ".
The microbes used in biofashion can be active or dormant, which will determine how the garment looks, feels and is cared for. For the photosynthetic series, Rubens worked with PostCarbon Lab to develop and commercialize the technology over the past two years, starting with petri dish-sized textile samples. They found an active bacterium that behaves like a plant, absorbing water, sunlight and carbon dioxide and producing oxygen. And Post Carbon Lab has created a "wet process" bacterial coating technology to make clothing a "living part"; the carrier of bacteria is organic wool, linen, organic cotton certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard and other recycled materials.
"How many hours does your body need to be in contact with the fabric?" Broadhead said. "People care about what's in the body, and they care about what's on the body." Her goal is to get the clothes through to the skin's pH and moisture levels. Positively affects the skin's healthy bacterial population and balances the microbiome for maximum skin protection. Her creations are intimate: petticoats and corsets. Unlike nylon fabrics, they absorb sweat, reduce odor and provide "nutrition".
The Skin Series will debut algae and bamboo-based fabrics rich in amino acids, protein and minerals, and will launch a probiotic 'Skin Ii' bodysuit later this year.
"Dormant bacteria exist in the form of yeast, but getting them to move through fabrics is novel," said Linlin Yao, head of biology at Carnegie Mellon University's Materials Research Laboratory and director of the Morphing Matter Lab. shrinks; so we activate the bacteria's dormant mode so they can passively move around the fabric."
bioLogic has created a new high-performance fabric that combines biomaterial research with textile design. It uses the Bacillus subtilis natto strain commonly used to ferment soybeans; the method of transferring the bacteria to the fabric is similar to "salt crystals after water evaporates" - printed in a liquid medium using a custom-designed printer made of bacteria the wet sheet; when it dries, the bacteria are left behind.
bioLogic's materials are suitable for sports and performance apparel, while the Rubens and Skin Series are more focused on targeted, everyday use. The Photosynthetic Collection offers urban chic crochet head covers for winter warmth and floral sun hats for summer and spring.
Needless to say, biofashion has a luxury price due to its unique production, dedicated shipping costs and retail markups. In addition, post-purchase care needs to be considered: consumers must provide the garment with the right environment through misting, ventilation, shading and moderate lighting to maintain its microbial viability and content.
So, at this stage, biofashion is more of a conceptual couture piece than a commercial garment with verifiable carbon capture potential. There are still many unknowns in the field of biofashion and further research is needed around usage, maintenance, and actual carbon sequestration potential and overall environmental impact, with durability and effectiveness being key barriers to commercialization.
“With the right investment and scientific practice, even seemingly distant innovations like bio-fashion are possible. This is the first step in our brand journey, and we hope that more people will combine scientific innovation with fashion and set off more Big wave to meet our climate goals," Rubens said.
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